Brad Tuebner's Recumbent and Human Powered Vehicle projects

Brad Teubner's HPV Projects
Poor man's GRR - 1996 (word doc)
Orange Varna Velo - 2005
Orange 2 Velo - 2008
Winter Cab Version 2 - 2010 
Tilting trike conversion - 2014

E-Mail Brad

Fully Faired Speed Ross

Most of the mechanisms are light nylon cord and wire ties. I normally run around town with the bottom two hooked to the lower brace but not pulled in so the cab doesn't bounce on bumps, and pull all three when racing. For a very tight corner (u-turn on a highway), I will release the front to allow more turning before fairing buzz. I have stuck my feet down through these in an emergency stop without damaging anything, but I really try not to.
roslrol.jpg (5158 bytes)
rossopen.jpg (8534 bytes) Notice the string on the cab slightly below my son's hand and above the handlebars. That string is tied to a wire tie there, goes through one halfway up the side, and is terminated with a hook above that middle wire tie (the left middle and top wire tie are visible about 30 deg above the horizontal, one and two feet from the left grip). After the cab is lowered, I reach down and hook the loose part of the strings around the hook at the front bottom of the aluminum tubing in front of the rear wheel. then when I pull up on the top of the string (after I'm rolling), it pulls the bottom into the center, and I drop the hook on that end of the string over the top wire tie looped through the cab material.

Front view showing the bottom of the fairing pulled in with the strings.

rossffnt.jpg (6085 bytes)
rossbare.jpg (5927 bytes) The Speed Ross without the fairing.
This front mechanism has a string attached to each of the lowest front Coroplast parts that runs through a central eyelet and up to the top of the nosecone, from there back over the handlebars, and another hook and wire tie arrangement pulls those up. That central wire tie is also visible in the bottom picture. rossfmnt.jpg (8334 bytes)
rossrear.jpg (7918 bytes) Fairing-less bike showing the rear mounting and positioning brackets.
In this picture, you can see the left top wire tie and the stop of the right string with hook and rubber-band attaching it to the right top wire tie. rosshrm.jpg (3231 bytes)
The picture shows the current state of the Speed Ross. Changes from the original pictures were:

1. The next year (1999), I put on 2 inch narrower bars so I could narrow the fairing 2 inches and also extended the top of the tail 14 inches in order to clean up the trailing edge. This seems to have made a 2 mph gain, but I don't have much data. Comparing a large number of rides, the bike with fairing is 33% faster than unfaired.
2. The mechanism to seal up the bottom has worked well and is unchanged.
3. Somewhere after then, I put on the Aerospoke wheels. The main reason was that I was tired of prying off the fabric covers to put air in, and I had a lurking fear of the fabric covers coming off and locking up a wheel. I don't think the Aerospokes are quite as fast as the Unis.
4. Last fall (2006) I cut up an old Garrie Hill canopy and attached it to the top. Comparing fastest runs between this configuration and a similar unfaired bike shows a 48% speed increase. My average of five best runs on a bare bike is 18.47, with the faired bike 27.27.

Back to the WISIL Projects page